Ammonium Sulfate is an extremely soluble fertilizer, making the sulfate quickly available to plants but very prone to leaching. Because of its strength, care must be taken when applying Ammonium Sulfate so as to not burn any existing plants. Elemental sulfur requires a longer time to lower the soil pH because it works with natural soil bacteria. The soil bacteria convert sulfur to sulfuric acid thus resulting in a lower soil pH. Michigan State University states this well:.
The bacteria are active, when the soil is moist and warm. The soil temperature needs to be above 55F. The bacteria are not active in the winter so fall applications of sulfur have little effect on the soil pH next spring. As I mentioned above, allowing enough time for sulfur to acidify soil is necessary. I always want to plant blueberries right away! But you really need to give time to let the sulfur work. Six months would be a very minimum amount of time, especially if you are using elemental sulfur.
One to two years is more ideal. Have your soil tested again several weeks before planting to ensure it is in the proper pH range for blueberries. Application rates can get a bit tricky and confusing. In researching this article I have seen application rates vary widely, even from reputable sources. Because of the widely varying application rates, and because I want you to be successful, I recommend checking the packaging of the product you are using for a guideline.
I normally use Epsoma Soil Acidifier. Found HERE This is an affiliate link but 30 lb bag is the best price per pound at the time of writing this. Epsoma recommends 12lbs per square feet to lower one pH point.
I was not able to pin down exact application amounts for elemental sulfur vs. Ammonium Sulfate and therefore if your sulfur packaging does not have an application amount on it, call your local cooperative extension office and find out.
They are very helpful! You will want to add mulch after planting the blueberries but you can also do that now to cover the soil. When planting time comes, rake away the mulch to plant and then put it back into place. Pine needles, wood chips, and finely shredded leaves are good candidates for mulching prior or after planting.
It is recommended that you not use anything that can mat down and suffocate the plant roots, like whole leaves or grass clippings. If you would rather not have to worry about accidentally mixing in mulch with your soil at planting time, a tarp or planting a cover crop are good alternatives.
Cover crops are planted to build or retain soil health and not for harvest. Examples include winter rye, sorghum sudangrass, millet and buckwheat.
For a full list of cover crops suitable for preplanting blueberries click HERE. Here is the concise version of steps. Canning Recipes that Actually Taste Good. How to Dry Tomatoes with a Dehydrator …. How to Harvest, Cure, and Store Potatoes. How to Stock a Homestead Pantry.
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By following just a few basic steps, your blueberry plants will thrive for many decades and provide you with abundant fruit every year. We highly recommend you read the Blueberries Simplifed section of our site for a primer on selecting varieties. Below are some basic tips to help ensure your success with blueberries:. Select a sunny location with well-drained soil that is free of weeds and is well-worked. It's best to locate your blueberry plants in an area where irrigation is readily available as best results will be achieved by keeping the root zone moist throughout the growing season.
Where the soil is not ideal or marginally-drained, raised beds are an excellent option. Blueberries also do well in patio containers and offer a great way for apartment and condo dwellers and those with little or no yard to enjoy blueberries.
Blueberries prefer acidic soils. A fail-safe way to grow blueberries in almost any soil is to incorporate peat moss into the planting medium. Add an equal amount of pre-moistened peat moss and mix well. One 4 cubic foot compressed bale will usually be sufficient for plants.
For raised beds mix equal volumes peat moss with bark not cedar or redwood , compost or planting mix. Talk to your local garden center. If planted in rows, allow 8 to 10 feet between the rows depending on equipment used for mowing or cultivating.
In most areas, it is ideal to plant in the fall or spring although in many regions you can plant year round. If you purchased containerized blueberry plants, remove from pot and lightly roughen up the outside surface of the root ball. Then mound soil up along sides of exposed root mass and water in well. Continue to fill up to the top of the pot and firm lightly. Then slip the growing pot out of the compost and drop in the blueberry plant. It will fit perfectly and be planted at just the right level.
Regular watering is essential. Blueberries hate to be dry at the roots. They are light feeders, so an annual application of Vitax Azalea, Rhododendron and Shrub Fertiliser will supply most of the nutrients they need. Each spring, scrape off the surface of the compost, add a handful of fertilizer and top up with fresh ericaceous compost. Apply another small handful of fertilizer in mid-summer: blueberries have a second phase of growth later in the year and additional feeding gives the plants a late boost.
After a couple of years your blueberries will need pruning. Do this in midwinter, shortening back any long canes that have grown up through the centres of the plants.
This encourages branching which results in more fruit. To check if the product you require is in stock, please contact the retailer prior to visiting. Your login details have been used by another user or machine. Login details can only be used once at any one time so you have therefore automatically been logged out.
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